PRE-BUILDING PLANS
Before you start building your ramp make sure that you read and understand
these plans completely. You've got to have a good feeling for what you are about to tackle or you will probably end up with a mess. There are some important things to consider before you even decide what kind of ramp you are going to be building. There is almost nothing worse than starting off on a project and finding out half-way through that you're not going to be able to pull it off because you've blown-off or forgotten some important step along the way.
This is a big undertaking, don't be embarrassed about asking for a little
help. Ramps are now popping up all around the country at an amazing rate, chances are good that at least one ramp is already being ridden in your neighborhood. Go check out a ramp that's already built and see what kind of problems the owners have had with it, or get some good ideas for things to do with your own ramp. Also don't be too proud to ask dad or some other adult for help on the carpentry; every man alive likes to believe he is an accomplished builder and will usually jump at the chance to pound a few nails. If you get dad to help you, rather than letting the project turn out half-assed under his supervision, he will probably do all he can to make it turn out good. Who knows, if he really gets into it he might even float a few bucks towards the cost of materials. Then, when all the work is done he might appreciate more the idea of having this big wooden monster sitting in his backyard. You, on the otherhand, should have no problems appreciating this big wooden monster. Skate tough or stay in a coma.
Enough planning, it's time to build some vertical terrain. First of all you
must decide what your limitations are and how this will affect the ramp you are going to build.
Limitation Aspect #1. Location-probably the most important thing to resolve;
where are you going to put it? Ramps can virtually be built anywhere. We've seen ramps of every description built in backyards, fields, orchards, sidewalks, parking lots, rooftops, mountain sides and creek beds. First look at the obvious spots, like your own backyard or a tolerant friend's pad. Private property with permission is best for obvious reasons. Putting up a quarter pipe or lightweight structure is one thing, but sweating out a killer ramp only to have someone tell you to take it down is not happening. Warehouses, garages and the like are good sites because they are level, indoors and away from the elements (cops and neighbors). Check with your city or town officials in regard to public lands or park and recreation facilities that might be available. It is becoming more common for local governments to take interest in the skateboarder's plight and build a public ramp, check into this idea with your own.
Ideally, for a decent sized half-pipe like the one described in this book,
you will want to build on a fairly large, flat cement surface (patio, parking lot, etc.) but a relatively level dirt or grass area will work fine. Be sure and check out local ordinances regarding construction, you might need a building permit for the ramp you have in mind. Keep in mind that this is going to be a permanent structure, once it's done you won't want to think about anything but the next session, so make sure your facts are straight before you follow through with the construction.
In most cities, the ordinances require that the structure cover more than a
certain percentage of your yard, such as, 30% of the available open space. In many cases, making your ramp portable (or at least appear so) will help bypass many of the requirements, such as building permits, etc. Also, most city codes specify that no backyard structure can be higher than the highest point of the house. Check into it, once you know what must be done to build your ramp legally, you will most likely have to abide by some civil laws as well.
It is very rare that all surrounding neighbors will put up with extended
night sessions, trash floating around or boards shooting into their pool or pegging their backyard pooch. Because of the brash nature of skating and skaters themselves, it is wise to inform your immediate neighbors of the possibility of such goings on, and get a feeling for what you can and cannot do. Believe me, if you push your limits with them, the ramp will not last long because the law will side with them almost every time.
Limitation Aspect #2. Type of ramp you can afford to build. So you've found
the perfect spot; some old lady with a ranch outside of town craves the energy of youth and has agreed to give you free reign of an acre of land with a nice swimming hole and rows of pregnant apple trees, no problems there, but now there's the question of materials. What do you have to build with?
The materials you are able to get your hands on will basically tell you what
kind of ramp you'll soon be ripping. Unless you have 20 or 30 sheets of plywood lying around or a large stack of 2 x 4s you will probably be spending close to $1000 for your basic 8' wide, 8' radius transition half-pipe. Plywood isn't cheap and even though 2 x 4s do grow on trees they aren't just lying around, but there are ways of getting some free wood. Ripping off wood or shopping at "the midnight lumber store" can get you busted. We've been hearing some real nightmares about young thrashers getting caught with a load and getting to see the legal system work first hand. The amount of lumber you'll need for your ramp will probably constitute grand theft in most lawbooks so watch it. Don't get stopped before you've even started. Check your own backyard or garage for wood and ask friends or neighbors if they have any. Also, hang around local construction sites and beg for cut-off ends and various scraps, every little bit gets you one step closer.
Wood is expensive if you have to buy it outright, but it's plentiful enough
that you can find a bargain if you shop around. Check the phone book for salvage yards that deal in used wood. Most of the time they'll have all you need at a fraction of the cost. You may have to pull a few nails but it's worth it. When dealing with these guys try to to bargain for your final price, you might save yourself even more bucks by not agreeing to the first price they give you.
Once you have assembled all you can feasibly scrounge, it's time to start
putting it together. The hard part is over now, you realize your limitations and you must now decide what type of ramp you're going to build. You may find that because of one thing or another you are limited to building a smaller ramp or quarter-pipe rather than a full-blown half-pipe. Don't be discouraged if the ramp forecast looks bleaker than you imagined before, almost any variation of most big ramp maneuvers can be pulled off on a smaller dimension ramp. Also, to the beginning verticalist, a smaller ramp is going to be helpful for training purposes and will keep you shredding until you can move up to big time. Use what you can to ride what you've got; real skaters ignore limitations.
CONSTRUCTION:
Banked Ramps
There is no reason why any skater who craves vert should be deprived of a
vertical wall or bank to skate. Even if you are flat broke there are things you can do. In reality all you need is a 3/4" thick piece of plywood and you're in business. Whenever you get the urge to skate a bank just drag out that old piece of plywood and "set it up."
If you can get your hands on some 2 x 4s, try expanding on the banked ramp
theme by building a frame for your piece of plywood. Starting with a "banked ramp" is a good way for the beginning skater/carpenter to get into basic wall riding and ramp construction at the same time. Quarter Pipes
A quarter-pipe is just what it sounds like, a quarter piece of round pipe.
If you can rustle up at least four or more 4' x 8' sheets of plywood and a decent supply of 2 x 4s you can throw together a small quarter-pipe that will carry you up to vertical. A cash outlay here will still run around $75 for new wood.
As far as transition from horizontal to vertical goes there are several ways
of constructing a quarter-pipe. One method is to build an L-shaped framework similar to the one shown for the banked ramp, except that you create the curve for the transition with 2 x 4s. By cutting and fitting lengths of 2 x 4 into place you can make a solid curve and a foundation for the plywood skating surface. (Fig. 1) The thickness of the plywood for making this type of ramp should be no more than 3/8". Using two or three layers of 1/4" ply is recommended here for the optimum transition.
Another method of quarter pipe construction involves the use of plywood
templates to form the transition and 2 x 4 cross bracing to support the skating surface. If you go ahead with this type of design, using the template method, you'll need to look ahead to the plans for building a half-pipe for instructions on how to make templates using the string/compass method. (Fig. 2)
Regardless of the type of method you use to construct a quarter-pipe, the
radius of the transition should measure between 6' and 8'. Also because you are building a single sided ramp, you'll be pushing into the ramp from another surface such as the street or sidewalk. In this case you want a smooth connection between the street and where the ramp begins. Try cutting the edge of the plywood at an angle, where it will meet the asphalt, before you nail it down. Or, slap a thin strip of sheet metal down over the critical area, tack it with small nails and finish it off with a length of silver duct tape to insure against flesh wounds if you have to slide over it. Half-pipe
Here are the plans for building the basic minimum structure needed for
full-on vertical skating (16' wide, 10 feet of flat bottom, 8' transitions with a foot of vertical, hence a 9 foot wall). These dimensions are commonly used for several reasons. One, plywood is widely available in 4' x 8' sheets and 2" x 4" and 2" x 6" studs are usually bought in 8' and 16 lengths. Using lumber of these dimensions will add up to a nice 16-footer without wasting cut-off ends and creating a lot of unusable scrap. Another reason for the 16-foot size is that anything smaller is going to seem too cramped for full-on sessioning. Twelve foot is passable, but if you go 12 feet, it's almost easier to stretch it out to 16 feet because of those standard lumber dimensions.
Another point that we should review is that the methods we are discussing
here for building a skateboard ramp will result in an ultimately sturdy structure. One that can be pummeled year after year without so much as resheeting of plywood or masonite from time to time. If you have to take short cuts because of lack of funds or materials, there are ways to cut back. The size of your ramp for starters. Smaller ramp; less wood. There is also a way to make your transition templates using less plywood than we discuss here without sacrificing too much in the strength department. We'll try to cover some of these cost-saving tips as we get to them; otherwise, if you've got the materials and the cash, build it big and strong, it'll pay off in the long run.
Once you have found a site to build on it is important to make sure it is
close to level. Starting with a bottom framework that is level makes everything else fall into place a little easier once you begin building upwards. If you're building on an incline or on otherwise shaky ground, you'll want to sink 4" x 4" posts at least 2' into the ground (preferably in cement) and sticking up high enough at the low end to run a level beam between them. (Fig. 3)
If the ground is soft, build the framing on top of cement pier blocks placed
at the strategic corners. Posting also lifts the structure off the ground, thereby keeping rot and insect damage in check for a longer period.
Bottom Framework
This is where the strenth and sturdiness of your ramp lies; the more solid
your initial framework is, the longer your ramp is going to last. This part of the ramp will be completely covered up so make sure that it is solid before you move onto the next step.
It is best to use 4 x 4s for the framework but 2 x 4s will work. Lay these
in a rectangular boø thå sizå oæ thå ramp Iî ouò caså iô woulä bå 10§ of flat bottom plus two 8' radius transitions-26 feet long and 16 feet wide. Brace this structure with 2 x 4s spaced 6 inches apart under the flat section and a foot apart under the transitional areas. For more strength, support these bracings with additional 2 x 4s as shown in the diagram. Place the 2 x 4s in the frame with the 2" side facing up and sitting flush with the top of the 4 x 4s. The 2 x 4s will act as a solid base for connecting the plywood to the flat bottom section. (Fig. 4)
Horizontal to Vertical Transitions
The next step is deciding what radius should be used for the transition from
the flat bottom to the vertical wall. The shorter the radius, the steeper the incline, is the basic law. We chose an 8' radius to a 9' high wall for a fluid yet thrustable transition to a foot of "true" vert. Larger ramps have been built with as much as a 9 or 10 foot radius. For larger transitions you should plan on a higher wall to accomodate some vertical.
To cut out 8' transitions for your ramp you will need: a sabre saw, a piece
of string or twine at least 9 1/2 feet long, a pencil and a nail. Make a large compass by tying one end of the string to the nail and the other end to the pencil at exactly the 8-foot mark.
By securing the nail at one end (use a wooden stake in the ground if a nail
doesn't work), you can pull the string taut and draw transitional arc on a sheet of plywood, (Fig. 5) (and you thought that geometry had no place in the real world).
Using a half sheet laid down next to the full sheet, you should be able to
draw one full transition. Using a sabre saw, cut out the template being careful to stay right on your pencil line. This is where the smoothness of the transition begins. To save time, use the first transition that you've cut out as a pattern for the other transition pieces you will need. Or, apply the string/compass method using a large piece of cardboard instead of plywood. By doing this, you'll have a lightweight pattern that is easy to handle for tracing and insures that each transition is the exact same radius.
You will be able to save on expensive plywood without sacrificing the
strength of your ramp by cutting transition "ribs." To do this, draw an initial 8' radius and then readjust your string compass to 9' and draw another arc right behind the first one. This will give you a foot wide piece of plywood with an 8' radius arc on one side. These 'ribs' are then nailed onto the framework to support the middle of the wall without using a whole piece of plywood (Fig. 6). Full sheets of at least 5/8" plywood should be used for the templates on the four outside corners.
Connecting Templates to Framework
Start by placing 4 x 4 posts in each of the four corners of your bottom
framework. For extra strength sink these 2 to 3 feet into the ground. The height of these posts will be determined by how high you want your walls and how much vert. Start with posts 10 to 12 feet high; you can always saw off the extra length at the top. Use a carpenter's level to make sure everything is at right angles and then brace the posts with 2 x 4s.
Now you're ready to nail the plywood transition templates to the sides of
your framework. Connect the pieces of your templates together first, so that they form one whole 90 degree arc from flat bottom to vertical. Now position the completed template flush with the floor section of your framework and flush with the 4" x 4" vertical upright post and tack it on. Do likewise around the four corners of your framework. Now, for the tricky transition supports in between the outer templates, you'll want to build up some 2" x 4" framing that you can hang the transition ribs on. It is important here to make sure all your transition supports are in alignment with each other. If they're not, you'll find out when you start trying to fit in your cross bracing. Use a line level to make sure before you start the cross bracing.
Bracing
Building the 2" x 4" cross bracing into your ramp framework is an important
step because they supply the main support, as well as the nailing studs for the plywood skating surface. The strongest method is to notch out the plywood templates to accomodate a 2" x 4" cross brace so that its edge is flush with the ply edge.
Make a notching "pattern" by using a full transition and tracing the end of a
2 x 4 onto the template. Do this at 6" intervals at the bottom of the transition and continue up the wall. Once you are past the impact zone (the lower 2/3 of the transition) you can increase the distance between notches to 8 to 10 inches.
By making a notching pattern, either of cardboard or plywood and tracing it
onto each of the transition templates, you'll be sure that the cross bracing is straight from one side of the ramp to the other and more importantly, flush with the curve of the transition template. Cut out the notching with sabre saw and lay in the 2 x 4s.
These are plans for the framework of a basic half-pipe. Before you cover
with plywood there are some things you might want to think about adding to your ramp. With the addition of stairs, vertical extention, coping, roll-out decks and canyons you can turn this into a completely raging structure. Once the plywood has been layed on ramp do your best not to even think about taking it back up. Decide which extra features you want to add now and then move on towards the end. Besides being a complete hassle, pulling up a sheet of plywood after its been nailed down is a great way to waste it. Tombstones & Extenstions
A "tombstone" is really just an extension of the vertical wall of your ramp.
Having some extra vertical footage on one side (or both sides) of your ramp is nice for getting those extra gnarly sensations, there's nothing like a frontside grind on top of a 12-foot wall with 3 1/2 feet of vert. A tombstone will also give you that extra launch needed for airs and other bio tricks that require an extra speed thrust.
Building a tombstone into your ramp framework is easy. Just extend your wall
supports above the ramp lip for as much vert as you think you can handle, brace it up and ply it along with the rest of the ramp.
If you want to add a tombstone to an already existing ramp, it's a little
tricky because you'll want to tie the extension into the subframing for max strength. Do this by prying up the roll-out deck, adding supports where needed and secure solidly to the existing framework behind the ramp wall. A good place for an extension is on an edge or one corner of your ramp, because its easier to brace there. Once it is in place you'll be able to use it to get good speed lines on the opposing wall of the ramp.
Canyons and Rollout Decks
Rollout decking is a must for any ramp. Most regulars will drop off the lip
from the axles or tail or just simply roll in from the top decking. It is also much safer to ride with a rollout deck because you won't go over the side on a miscalculated layback air or rock 'n' roll. To add on to your existing ramp, just build a basic boxlike framework behind the transitions and cover with used ply.
Roll-in canyons are sometimes rather difficult to install once your ramp has
been completed. The optimum channel width is 3' wide, manageable yet challenging enough for ollie/airs and channel plant type maneuvers. A 6 ft. roll in radius is desirable. This allows you to comfortably drop into the meat of transition. Learning fakie tricks on the wall opposite the canyon is easier without having to start from a fakie rock 'n' roll position all the time.
Build a channel opening just like a regular transition except upside down.
Start by cutting two 6' radius transition 'ribs' out of some scrap ply. Fit them in on either side of your channel gap so that they flush up against the underside of the plywood near the top of the transition and under the rollout platform. Nail the ribs to the framework of your ramp, 2" x 4" cross bracing in between, and you're ready to ply down (Fig. 7).
Coping
Coping applications is a must for any skate ramp. One of the best things
about coping is that it keeps the edge of your ramp from getting splintered and ground up. Not to mention making a ramp extra grindable with less hangups. Materials for coping are fairly plentiful as well as various in accordance with different tastes. Here's a quick rundown of some of the more common cope.
PVC plastic piping seems to be quite popular, plentiful and cheap. It
provides a good sliding grind with or without truck protection and is fairly easy to install. Rip a length (at least 4') of 2" PVC pipe right down the middle and you'll have two equal halves that you can work with. Drill small holes for nails or countersink screws and secure it to the lip.
Real pool coping is, naturally, an excellent choice for a ramp lip. It gives
you that extra bite and just has a more comfortable feel to it. Some skaters have managed to salvage enough blocks from dirt filled or destroyed pools to edge their ramps with, otherwise you can sometimes buy blocks at a pool supply outlet or masonry yard.
Lately we've been seeing some other variations on the coping theme. Angle
iron, which is iron bar shaped in a 90 degree angle, has been showing up on a few ramps. It is easy to apply, provides an ultra durable lip cap that will last the lifetime of three or four ramps, if not forever, and provides a super slippery edge for plastic and metal to metal grinding. Arguments against using iron for cope is that it doesn't grab well on handplant maneuvers and it hurts a lot more than something like PVC if you slip and slap your shin against it. But, you only live once.
Stairs & Ladders
You're going to want to be able to get to the rollout deck of your ramp,
without running up the wall everytime. Stairs are ideal, but they are also a bitch to build right. Ladders are not as stylish but it doesn't take much expertise to build one. All you need is two 2" x4"s (minimum size for support) the same height as your ramp and about ten short pieces for steps. Support the long pieces and nail in the steps at whatever distance you feel comfortable with. If you're still hell-bent on stairs go to the library and check out a book on carpentry, you should be able to find plans and put together a mean staircase.
THAT IMPORTANT FIRST LAYER
Let's recap a few strong points that we've already covered. Before you even
think of applying the first layer of plywood you should have solid reinforcement in the framework and crosspieces of the flat, transition, and vertical sections of the ramp. The transition should have rigidly supported 2" x 4" cross members spaced, at the most, 6" apart. The floor of the ramp should be just that: as close to a solid unit as possible. The optimum for this flat bottomed section would be to build almost exclusively from lumber like a redwood deck or patio.
Another way to attain a completely rigid ramp floor is to construct it like
the floor of your house with a cement block foundation supporting a solid framework structure and the entire flat area covered with 3/4" - 1 1/4" thick plywood. The next time you see a house under construction, stop and check out how the floors are made. It is a simple framework, with HEAVY DUTY plywood on top. You'll want your floor as inflexible as possible.
If your transition and vertical cross members are into notches in the
transition templates, make sure they are solidly secured at each notch point. Get on the side of the ramp and sight down the length of the framework. This is important because you want the first layer of plywood to flush on each cross brace to achieve a flowing, 'kinkless' transition.
There are a few things to keep in mind when designing the supporting
framework: 1) Floor area plywood pieces must always run lengthwise with the grain running in the direction of the skating (coping to coping). This means that the braces under these pieces should be positioned such that the plywood can be fastened lengthwise along the edges to these supporting braces. 2> Where two pieces of plywood meet on the transitions there tends to be a certain amount of straightening of the pieces in the seam area because there are no internal shear stresses set up in the wood to hold it down. To remedy this, I would suggest placing extra support brace cross members on either side of the seam supporting cross members to help hold down the edges of the plywood into a smooth curvature. 3) If you choose to construct the floor of the ramp with lumber decking or heavy duty 1 1/4" plywood, you will only need, at the most, one layer of 3/8" on top of that and it should last a lifetime. With this in mind, design the transition so that the layers of ply stack up to the height of this single layer on flat. There's no use in putting three or four layers on top of a perfectly solid floor. 4) Get out the old geometry book and calculate the surface distance from the top of one side of the ramp to the top of the other. This will help you determine how much plywood you will need and it should give you an idea of the most efficient, economical way to lay it down on the framework to get the best use of the wood.
Once you have achieved a strong, rigidly secured supporting framework, you
are ready to apply the all important first layer.
Plywood is constructed with cross-grained layers of wood and therefore has
its strength in the lengthwise direction, because there are more plys running in this direction within the piece of plywood. The same principle can be used in surface construction of your ramp by alternating each layer of 3/8" thick plywood on your ramp: Make the first layer run lengthwise, the second layer crosswise and the last layer lengthwise again. This will give the best strength and stability to the riding surface.
If your ramp has a tight transition design you may have trouble bending the
pieces of plywood (especially lengthwise) into the transition without cracking or breaking them.
To check for this problem, lay your plywood pieced down on the ramp so that
half are on the floor and half on the transition. Now, <HI>gently apply steady pressure to the piece. If it can be flexed all the way down without stress fracturing, then move it to the transition and try it again. Here you may hear a few creaks and groans as you ease it into place, but don't worry unless it really sounds gnarly. Whatever you do don't shove it down or have some idiot stamping on it to jam it in place, it will break instantly. If the pieces of plywood cannot be eased down gently and steadily into place without them screaming in pain, then you'll have to soak them first to get them to comply.
Do this by forming a shallow, flat bath out of a plastic tarp and soak the
wood for a day under water. Make sure you are using exterior grade plywood if you do this. A way to get around this problem if you are buying new plywood is to look around for fresh, still damp exterior plywood at the hardware store or lumber yard and purchase it the day you plan to surface your ramp. Bring it straight to the ramp site and apply it. You should have no trouble at all doing it this way.
Make sure they are all positioned correctly and parallel. Now use dry wall,
sheet rock type, screws to secure down the plywood.
It is crucial here to get this layer tightly secured and fitted against all
support members in the flat area and the transitions of the framework. To do this now on the transitions, the screws must be applied in horizontal rows working from the bottom of the sheet to the top. Do not merely tack down the corners while holding down the sheet, then put screws in at random. This will result in a poor fit to the transition. Each row of sheets must be applied in step from the floor to the top of the ramp for the best fit.
Make sure you pay attention to details during this first layer application.
Seams should be flush, with corners all joining at a point; sheets with cracks and defects should be placed facing down and in the outer corners of the ramp. Your strongest pieces should be put on the middle transition area.
Sheets placed on crooked or gaps left between sheets will cause a compounding
problem that will magnify as you go about laying down the rest of the first layer. Don't be conservative with screws. The more screws you use, the closer the plywood will assume your intended transition, and the smoother and more solid will be your ride. Make sure all screws go into brace supports. If there appear to be any soft spots, then replace that piece or build up more supports and bracing behind it.
FINAL TOUCHES
The second, third and each successive layer of plywood should be alternated
or criss-crossed when applied. It will be much easier to lay these alternate layers but remember to line up all the sheets so that they are parallel and fit well together at the seams. Try not to align the seams of the second layer over the seams of the first, in fact stagger it as much as possible for maximum strength.
Check the smoothness of the surface, use sandpaper to smooth out any spots
where there might be splinter action. Check out where the sheets of plywood meet each other, check for nails or screws sticking up and for uneven surfaces. Check out the supports, stomp on the ramp and make sure it's solid, give it a good enough beating that you can be sure it's not going to come apart on you.
Now that you've completed the basic structure, you may want to session it for
a few days to get that initial buzz out of your system. For all intents and purposes you are done, however, if you still have the funds there are some things you should do to protect the surface and insure your ramp's long life. The dumpings of winter rain and snow and the scorching summer sun on some poor ramps can deteriorate all that nice wood fast. A little preventive medicine in the form of surface protection is going to go a long way to preserve your riding surface.
Painting is the cheapest way to protect your ramp's surface, not to mention
giving you a chance to personalize it with your art skills. Your basic enamel (water base) exterior paint works best because it soaks in and dries fast. You should apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat, letting the first one dry before applying the second. This will prevent the surface from becoming slippery.
Water sealant can be added to the layer directly beneath the top layer. The
top layer can be coated on both sides and edges.
Allow everything to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the top layer
to the ramp. This method works well with masonite and will keep water from seeping in from behind during the wet months.
One of the best surface coverings is SPAR urethane. This will make your
plywood or masonite top layer superfast and ultra-endurable. Apply two light coats then one heavy coat, allowing it to drip into all the cracks and seams of the surface layer. About 3 cans will do the job for a 16' wide ramp.
An expensive route, but one that, if done right, will stay for years is the
application of 1/8" masonite shower wall on top of a layer of masonite or very smooth, high grade plywood. Shower walling is a thin, easily bendable, epoxy coated masonite that is 100% waterproof, and requires no screws or nails to apply. There are dozens of surface designs available in any bathroom supply section at any hardware store. To apply this wonder surface you will need ample amounts of epoxy-base glue, such as linoleum glue, or any strong industrial adhesive. Slap liberal coats onto each sheet and press with a rolling pin into place on top of your top layer. Remember, this is a surfacing technique, NOT a support layer. Shower wall will not increase the strength of your ramp at all. You must make sure your underplys are very strong and smooth before applying shower wall. Once applied, you will have the hardest, fastest, most impregnable surface known at this point in ramp construction.
NOTE: Any of the sealing methods must be done thoroughly so that water
cannot seep under the top layer. When this happens, the moisture will stay in between the plys because the sealant won't allow the top layer to breathe, thus allowing it to dry out. The moisture will cause rot and mildew in the wood and you'll have to tear it up.
Now you have your ramp. Our best wishes go out to you and your new
structure, may it be a long-term high-energy affair. If you have done the work right, shown patience and not blown anything off, then all that's left is the ride. Skate unconventionally but stay safe.
OWNING YOUR RAMP
Legality
If you have dealt with the proper legal channels as mentioned in the
beginning of this booklet and your ramp meets local construction ordinances, etc., then you should have little to worry about, the law cannot get you unless someone makes a complaint. As mentioned before, your neighbors are the ones who can put a legal stop to your ramp riding. Bear down and do your best to avoid offending them and things will go much smoother for you.
If the ramp is up by a neighbor's fence, put up some kind of catch netting to
stop flying boards. If it is prone to be an eyesore, then paint the ramp a suitable color or nail paneling around the sides and back. The neighbors may complain about the noise when the ramp is being skated. This noise comes from underneath the transitions. You can dampen this noise by stuffing foam rubber, styrofoam or insulation in the back between the support braces. Even a few old sleeping bags tacked in place will help.
Set a time limit for sessions and watch the volume of music if you play it.
A lot of neighbors don't mind the noise but after twelve hours of skating and rocking most non-skater's nerves will grow thin. Put out a trash can for litter.
Liability
It is very important to realize that you are liable for any injuy that occurs
on your property which includes your ramp. People in this country have a very selfish tradition of blaming someone else if they take a risk and get hurt. They try to justify their injury by making someone else pay the price in cold hard cash. With the amount of money-hungry lawyers out there who specialize in lawsuits, charging no fee unless they win, it's no wonder that everyone seems to be getting sued. To avoid this fate yourself, you had better make it clear to all skaters who ride your ramp that they are riding AT THEIR OWN RISK. Post a sheet of ground rules easily visible from the ramp. This will minimize the chance that you and your family will be liable. Make everyone wear all safety equipment, especially helmets. Many ramp owners require skaters to sign "Skate at your own risk" type release forms to exclude them from liability. These rules may seem tiresome and a pain but you are responsible for enforcing them. It is much better to skate safe, and have your friends do so, than to be battling in court or living in the streets.
Finally, don't let things get out of hand around the ramp. You, as the
owner, are responsible for keeping it under control, even if it means telling some out of line skaters to take off. Many times a new ramp will attract a crowd you don't even know who make themselves right at home by barging into your house for a drink, pissing in your yard or severely thrashing your ramp and property in a frenzied skate session. It is your right as the owner to determine the who, when, where, and what of your ramp so don't let yourself be pushed around, make decisions and stick by them.
REHABILITATION OF OLDER RAMPS
There will probably come a point after hours of sessioning and multiple
weather beating days, that you will have to make repairs on your ramp. If you have taken care and preserved the wood with a protective layer then the repairs should only be minor, usually soft spots, kinks or spongy areas.
A common "solution" to these problems seems to be slapping on more and more
layers of plywood until it "goes away." This can be very expensive and will hardly ever work in the long run. We've seen the same weak spot resurface in the exact same place though more than 10 layers had been put on the ramp in question.
The way to fix these defects is by getting to the root of the problem, like
when you go the dentist: when you have a cavity, he makes sure he gets to the bottom of it before he starts filling it. If he doesn't, then you still have the problem. Most of the troubles on the riding surface are due to weak or kinked transition structures, look behind the the ramp if possible, where the problem spot lies. You may find that the cross members are broken or weak at that point, and need to be braced. If it is possible to do this without removing any plywood, simply brace the bad cross piece with extra 2 x 4's or steel brackets. Often the bad spot is impossible to get to from behind. In this case, remove all layers of plywood over the spot and support the frame work underneath. Always replace the plywood with new layers where the soft spot has been repaired.
When a plywood related surface problem develops, the best solution is to
replace that sheet. A lot of funky methods are used to avoid doing this, like: cramming the spot with wood chips and duct-taping it closed (works for about three runs), nailing a scrap of tin over the spot (usually more death than the spot by itself), or chiseling out the piece of plywood that contains the spot and nailing in another piece (extremely weak). Replace the entire piece of plywood whenever possible. If the spot is small and replacing the whole sheet just seems like a waste, then there are a few alternatives. The best thing to repair a hole or soft spot with in this case is something resin-based like fiberglass. Chip the bad area open with a chisel and clean it out good. Now apply a filler like bondo or fiberglass layers to bring the hole up to the surface of the rest of the piece of plywood. Once this is dry, lay a piece of fiberglass over the whole area to make it smooth. Be careful when using resins to fix holes and soft spots, they set very fast when it's hot, and you need acetone to get the stuff off tools or your hands. Fiberglass sticks well to the wood on ramps and is far stronger than plywood so it will hold up well under punishment.
Another ramp repair method that has been suggested is using a mixture of
Elmer's glue and fine sawdust. Once this stuff dries it can be easily sanded and smoothed flush.
Once again, when making surface repairs in the ramp, get down to the root of
the problem. Most soft spots, kinks, and other defects are caused by flexible or weak supporting structure (i.e., bent, cracked, or broken cross members), so this is where the bracing and additional support is needed. Do not neglect to repair all spots before they become dangerously large.
Build strong and skate long.